Finance

The fashion industry is grappling with a profound challenge: achieving sustainability while simultaneously pursuing growth. At the heart of this dilemma lies a critical lack of transparency regarding production volumes, a gap that obstructs meaningful progress towards environmental responsibility and ethical practices. The 'Speak Volumes' campaign, launched by The Or Foundation, aims to bridge this information deficit by advocating for brands to publicly disclose their manufacturing quantities and commit to reducing them. This initiative has garnered support from some forward-thinking companies, including British surf brand Finisterre, whose head of positive impact, Adele Gingell, recognized the urgent need for greater openness after customer pressure. Finisterre's quick decision to participate underscores a growing awareness among brands that consumers are increasingly demanding accountability and verifiable data on their environmental footprint.

Despite the clear benefits of transparency, the adoption of production volume disclosure remains limited across the industry. Currently, only a small fraction of fashion brands share this crucial data, contributing to what sustainability strategist Rachel Arthur terms an "embarrassing data gap." The Or Foundation's efforts to persuade over a thousand brands have resulted in just under 200 commitments, revealing significant resistance. While some brands like Stripe & Stare found it relatively easy to provide this information due to existing internal tracking, others, particularly larger corporations with complex global supply chains, face greater challenges in data aggregation. The hesitation often stems from concerns about competitive disadvantage, potential public scrutiny over rising figures, and the absence of a standardized regulatory framework that would create a level playing field for all. This reluctance perpetuates a cycle where the true scale of overproduction—a root cause of waste and environmental harm—remains obscured, hindering effective policy-making and collective action.

Looking ahead, the push for mandated production transparency is gaining momentum, albeit through various regulatory approaches that still need better alignment. Emerging regulations, such as those related to extended producer responsibility (EPR) and the EU's Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), hint at a future where brands will be required to disclose production data, even if it's currently through non-public channels or by weight rather than by individual units. However, the diverse metrics and lack of public accessibility in these regulations present their own set of challenges, complicating efforts to create a universally understood benchmark for sustainability. Despite these hurdles, there are encouraging signs, with some major brands making internal commitments to prioritize lower volumes of higher-quality products. This shift, driven by a growing recognition of the environmental imperative, suggests a future where the industry moves beyond mere growth targets towards a more thoughtful and responsible approach to production.

Ultimately, achieving true sustainability in the fashion industry requires a fundamental reevaluation of current business models, moving away from a relentless pursuit of expansion towards a paradigm of mindful creation and consumption. By embracing transparency, brands can foster greater trust with consumers, facilitate informed decision-making, and pave the way for a more ethical and ecologically sound future for fashion. It is through collective commitment and a willingness to confront uncomfortable truths that the industry can transform, creating a positive impact that extends far beyond its products.

The curatorial collective Kublaiklan, renowned for its dedication to enriching photographic experiences and connecting individuals through artistic expression, has established a significant presence in the photography world. From their curatorial roles at esteemed festivals like Cortona On The Move to the recent inauguration of 'K!' in Turin, they consistently champion socially engaged photography. Their initiatives, including artist residencies and collaborative workshops, underscore a belief in photography's power to educate, foster diverse perspectives, and strengthen community bonds. The collective also launched 'L'ora di Fotografia' to promote visual literacy among younger generations, inviting renowned photographers to share their expertise.

Kublaiklan Inaugurates 'K!' in Turin, Unveiling Emilio Nasser's 'La Cornuda de Tlacotalpan'

In a significant development for the European photography scene, the curatorial collective Kublaiklan has officially launched its new space, 'K!', in the vibrant city of Turin, Italy. This innovative hub, which opened its doors to the public, is designed to be a dynamic center for exhibitions, workshops, and engaging discussions, aiming to introduce socially conscious photography—a practice well-established in Northern Europe and the UK—to a broader Italian audience. K! intends to serve as an accessible urban space, inviting the local populace to participate actively through artist residencies that emphasize co-creation and community engagement. Furthermore, it will house a meticulously curated library featuring photobooks and resources on collaborative photographic methods, available for viewing by appointment throughout the year.

The inaugural exhibition at K! presents 'La Cornuda de Tlacotalpan,' a compelling project by artist Emilio Nasser. This exhibition draws inspiration from a deep-rooted local legend from Tlacotalpan, a city nestled in Veracruz, Mexico. The myth centers on La Cornuda, a mysterious creature believed by local fishermen to inhabit the Papaloapan River. She is said to appear and vanish capriciously, often frightening people and whisking them away from Earth with her horns. Nasser ingeniously reinterprets this myth, engaging the Tlacotalpan community in a playful and imaginative exploration. Residents contributed their own drawings and written narratives, crafting alternative endings to the traditional tale.

As part of this immersive project, Nasser conceived a symbolic 'mark' created from mud and river debris. Members of the community were invited to wear this mark, transforming it into a tool for reenacting the legend and fostering interaction among individuals. This initiative not only brought the mythical creature out of the river and into the city's urban fabric but also allowed La Cornuda to metaphorically walk invisibly among its inhabitants, blurring the lines between folklore and contemporary life. The exhibition exemplifies Kublaiklan's commitment to transforming political discourse surrounding images into tangible, participatory experiences.

Beyond K!'s physical space, Kublaiklan, in collaboration with Fondazione Alfaparf, has also initiated 'L'ora di Fotografia' (The Hour of Photography). This impactful project is dedicated to supporting artistic production and cultivating visual literacy among younger generations. Through this program, five distinguished photographers—Hicham Benohoud, Ilaria Turba, Emilio Nasser, Karla Hiraldo Voleau, and Matteo de Mayda—are actively engaging with secondary school students. They lead workshops, conduct interviews, and host talks, providing invaluable insights and fostering a deeper appreciation for the art of photography among emerging talents.

Kublaiklan's endeavors, from the K! space to 'L'ora di Fotografia,' represent a holistic approach to photography, emphasizing community involvement, artistic education, and the powerful role images play in shaping our understanding of the world. By bridging traditional narratives with contemporary artistic practices, they are not only preserving cultural heritage but also inspiring a new generation of visually literate individuals.